The heart of old Madrid beats in the La Latina neighborhood, and one of its most characteristic arteries is Calatrava Street. This street is not one of the top tourist destinations, but anyone who turns here from Toledo Street or Plaza San Francisco gets a bonus: a real glimpse into the city’s past, its architecture, flavors, habits, and daily life.
At first glance, it seems noisy, delicious, and crowded. But behind the tavern signs, the clinking of glasses, and the guests’ smiles, there is almost seven centuries of history—a history that includes wealth, religious exiles, artists, movie theaters, and, of course, wine.
From Romano’s to Taverns
Calatrava Street didn’t always have its current name. It was once a street in San Francisco, then de Los Santos.
The name only became established in the 20th century in honor of Don Luis Monroy de Calatrava, an influential aristocrat who settled here after the expulsion of the Jews. Before him, the street was owned by Moises Romano, the richest financier of his time and an associate of King Henry II.
Romano’s house became a symbol of the era and later became a monastery where the venerated image of Christ was kept. Transitions from Jews to aristocrats, from aristocrats to monasteries, from monasteries to the state, Calatrava absorbed all layers of Spanish history.
By the way, here, in the XVII century, lived the artist Claudio Coelho, a court painter whom even contemporaries called a genius.
And the architect Teodoro Ardemans, who left his mark on the appearance of Madrid, lived just a couple of houses away.
A Street Where Life Was Always Boiling
Already in the 19th century, Calatrava began to acquire the image that is so beloved today. It was a bustling, businesslike, and yet very lively street. There were haberdashery shops, open-air markets, bakeries, and modest bars. La Flor de Oro, with its painted signs and brightly colored windows, was particularly popular.
Architect Chueca Goitia once remarked that Calatrava was destined for a fun and bustling future, and he wasn’t wrong.
Even going by house numbers can pack a bit of a tour:
- No. 9, the Posada de Calatrava, where travelers stayed in the 19th century.
- No. 13, a dance hall with a paid entrance of 4 reals, in operation until the end of the XIX century.
- No. 21, a former wine warehouse, now the Casa Gerardo tavern, which has preserved its wine vats and marble counter.
- No. 32 (corner with Angel Street), a building that once housed a 500-seat San Francisco movie theater.
Every building here bears the imprint of an era.
Even if the facades have been restored, inside you’ll find relics of the past: turn-of-the-century cash registers, wooden counters, carved doors, and frayed tiles.
Taverns, Tapas, and the Mysteries of Taste
Calatrava is also a street of gastronomy. It’s not glossy, but real gastronomy. Old wine
establishments have been transformed into modern bars, but still retain their atmosphere. Casa Dani, the former Vinos el 11 tavern, still has gas lamps, and the carved counter reminds you that it used to sell wine on tap throughout the neighborhood.
If you stop by Casa Muñiz, you’ll find yourself in a place that sold coffee and wine in the early 20th century and today serves fried eggplant with honey and salty tapas with a pitcher of red.
Here’s a short list of dishes that are definitely worth trying here:
- Oxtail stew;
- Castilian-style cod;
- Sobrasada (spicy sausage from the Balearic Islands);
- Eggplant almagro;
- Fish soup with sauce;
- Couscous with a modern twist.
And for dessert? Why not try wasabi ice cream or cheesecake with fig sauce?
When the Street Comes Alive
Want to see Calatrava at her most colorful? Come to the Paloma Festival. During these days, the street turns into a true open-air theater. Bartenders can’t wait to fill glasses, street musicians play from early morning, and locals hang garlands and sing traditional couplets.
Even if it’s your first time here, you’ll feel like you’ve come home. They know how to welcome guests here.
Calatrava is not just a street. It’s the living fabric of Madrid, woven from the stories, flavors, voices, and shadows of the past. And if you’re looking for a place where you can feel the city with your whole body from your heels to your taste buds, you’ve just found it.