There are corners of Madrid that the guidebooks don’t shout about, but that you return to again and again. Plaza de la Paja is one such square. Located in the La Latina neighborhood, it seems to slip away from time. Here you can find everything: the Moorish past, echoes of royal prayers, forgotten markets, ancient staircases, and what is especially nice is a cozy garden, hidden from view.
Would you like to be in Madrid for a moment before the era of rapid urbanization? Then it’s worth lingering in this square a little longer than a photo for the stories requires.
A Place Where History Lives Underfoot
Plaza de la Paja is not just a geographical point, but the heart of the ancient Moorish quarter. Nearby are narrow streets with steep descents, as if written off from engravings of ancient maps. All this is the consequence of the ravine through which the San Pedro Creek once flowed. Now, its bed is occupied by Segovia Street, but the gradient remains.
The very walls around the square tell of a time when the Muslim community still preserved its traditions beyond the borders of the Christian city.
The Plaza de la Paja was once bustling with life: in the 13th and 14th centuries, it was the city’s main marketplace. It was Madrid’s most spacious square, a center of commerce and socializing.
But times change. King John II moved market activity to the new Plaza del Arrabal (today’s Plaza Mayor), and the Plaza de la Paja began to lose its status. The decline was already evident in the 16th century: the courts moved closer to the new neighborhoods, and the western streets, with their slopes and curves, began to seem inconvenient.
And yet, despite the change of eras, the square has remained alive and multi-layered.
And Why “Paja”?
The name of the square arouses curiosity. It turns out that it is connected with the straw that was sold here. This straw was used to feed the mules used by the priests who served at the Bishop’s Chapel. And yes, it was exactly that tithe church tax, only in the form of hay.
By the way, the square had other names: Plaza de las Tabernillas in the XVIII century and even Plaza del Marques de Comillas in the XX century. But the popular nickname, as often happens, defeated the official versions.
After the square ceased to be a market square, it became a residential neighborhood for noble families. It was home to palaces that housed Catholic monarchs.
Especially interesting is the palace of the Lasso de Castilla family. In the 16th century, its gallery was connected to St. Andrew’s Church so that the monarchs could go to mass without going outside.
The guests’ names inspire respect: Joan of Madness, her husband Philip the Just, and even the future Pope Adrian VI.
Some of the buildings have fallen into disrepair over time, but two key elements remain: the bishop’s chapel and the former Vargas Palace, which now houses the school. These buildings are like anchors of time in the city center.
A Green Oasis
Suddenly, behind a wall, just off the square, a small, green, almost secret garden lurks. The garden of the Prince of Anglesey was once part of the palace of the same name. Now, it’s a place for those seeking peace.
It is a rare example of a classic Madrid garden from the 18th century. It has 800 square meters of greenery, boxwood hedges, neat paths, and a silence that is not disturbed by a single car.
This garden is like an invitation to stop, sit on a bench, and exhale.
What to Do Here Today?
The Plaza de la Paja is not an open-air museum, but a place where you can truly relax. Here are
a few ideas of what’s worth trying here:
- See the chapel that survived earthquakes and wars.
- Find the remnants of an ancient sidewalk.
- Take a look at the garden and stay longer.
- Sit on one of the terraces and order a vermouth.
- Read a book in the shade of a century-old tree.
- Listen to street musicians during the festival season.
Each of these activities is a way to tune into the rhythm of old Madrid, which is unhurried, respectful of detail, and steeped in history.
Plaza de la Paja
In a city full of museums, cathedrals, and bustling boulevards, places like the Plaza de la Paja remind us that real magic lives in the shadows—not where the crowds are but where a casual step turns into a journey through time.
And the next time you’re in La Latina, take a turn off the trail. Where the cobblestones crunch under your feet and the smell of jasmine, good old Madrid is waiting for you.